Ices Plain & Fancy was voted the runner up for 冰淇淋 and custard in St. Louis from the 2015 Feast 50.
“I’ve been [making nitro ice cream] in restaurants for many years,” says Max Crask, co-owner of Ices Plain & Fancy in St. Louis. “A lots of restaurants get it done this way mainly because they don’t have the proper freezers. Soft ice cream gets old like whatever else, in case it sits around, it’s planning to crust up and become gross. It’s really simply the best process so it will be.”
Crask, as well as Ices co-owners Troika Brodsky, Matthew Deutschmann and Crask’s sister, Darla Crask, opened the store inside the Shaw neighborhood of St. Louis last July.
“We’re a neighborhood frozen goodies shop,” Brodsky says. “We love the fact that we’re seeing a similar faces day-in and day-out, and we’re learning all of our neighbors. We wouldn’t have the capacity to do what we’re doing at the moment if [the area] hadn’t embraced us so wholeheartedly.”
The shop’s name comes from a magazine of the same title by Agnes Marshall, a late 19th- and early 20th-century English culinary writer who had been nicknamed “the Queen of Ices,” who suggested preparing soft ice cream using liquid nitrogen, which is the shop’s specialty, created by blending an frozen treats base together with the gas within a stand mixer. From classic butter pecan to vegan-friendly, soy-based cherry cordial, things are frozen-to-order right in front of the customer, a cloud of smoke billowing out of the stand-mixer bowl because the frozen treat takes shape.
“We’re not simply making soft ice cream; we’re making soft ice cream with liquid nitrogen and blowtorches,” Brodsky says. “It’s still soft ice cream; it’s the offerings people are employed to, nevertheless the process itself, along with looking great, offers a unique consistency, mouthfeel and flavor.”
Brodsky is also executive director from the St. Louis Brewers Guild, which contains generated collaborations with local 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Schlafly Beer breweries. Ices also collaborated with Sump Coffee in St. Louis to generate The Rear Up, which pairs the shop’s 三明治冰餅 with Sump’s coffee, plus coffee whipped cream plus a dexlpky89 of coffee grounds. Ices even create a special nitro ice for dogs, with fifty percent from the profits benefiting Stray Rescue of St. Louis.
This year, they at Ices not simply celebrated its first anniversary, but also debuted its refurbished 1964 Divco milk truck (affectionately dubbed “Agnes”). With Agnes, Brodsky hopes Ices are able to park at events and expand its catering services.
“We feel really lucky to become doing what we’re doing at this particular reason for period in St. Louis,” Brodsky says. “There’s so much potential, and folks are really accessible to trying new stuff.”