The realm of RC has several different facets; there’s really something for everybody. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering may be the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding surpasses grip, more power does not always mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is preferable to rubber. And once 3Racing sent over their SCX10 II, I needed to scoop one up to see what all of the hoopla was using this drifter.
WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any level of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
HOW MUCH: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for simple learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning before the motor or in the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Lots of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing
This drifter has quite a bit choosing it; well manufactured, plenty of pretty aluminum and rolls in at a very economical price. Handling is great also once you get accustomed to the kit setup, and it accepts a very number of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for individuals who love to tinker, which means that this car should grow along with you when your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is really a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It offers cutouts on the bottom for that front and rear diffs to peek through in addition to a bazillion countersunk holes. The majority of these can be used for mounting things like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are a good number of left empty. They may be utilized to control chassis flex, but not together with the stock top deck; an optional you have to be purchased. The layout is just like a regular touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and lastly the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Things are all readily available and replaceable with just a few turns of some screws.
? Apart from a couple of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. Just one A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to boost them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll whilst the front uses a fascinating, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and allows for some extreme camber settings.
? One important thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is the serious quantity of steering throw they have got. Beginning with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so that as near the edges from the chassis as possible. This generates a massive 65° angle, enough to regulate the D4 in the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend nearly all of their time sideways, I needed a good servo to take care of the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 uses a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. An enormous, 92T 48P spur is attached to the central gear shaft, the location where the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high over the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability towards the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit using a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.
? To offer the D4 a certain amount of beauty, I prefered 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica of this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the best way to paint it, but I do remember a technique I used a little while back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white around the underside, but painted the fenders black on the outside. After everything was dry, I shot the surface using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I adore the ultimate result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m an incredibly impatient painter!
ON THE TRACK
For this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter down on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to complete a photograph shoot for the next vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and have some sideways action?
The steering around the D4 is quite amazing. While I mentioned earlier, the throw can be a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. The CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Though it does look a little funny using the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an amazing job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the right direction. This really is, to some extent, thanks to the awesome handling of your D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is just not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I realize that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your respective drifter, you can control the angle of attack as well as the sideways motion through any corner. I stumbled upon Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to accomplish exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle alterations in affect the angle of your D4 when and where I needed. Sliding inside a little shallow? Increase throttle to get the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit and the D4 would get back in line. It’s all dependent on ? nesse, and the Novak system is designed for simply that. I have done must be a little creative together with the install in the system due to only a little space around the chassis, but overall it worked out great.
After driving connected touring cars for a while, it does have a little getting used to knowing that a vehicle losing grip and sliding is the correct way round the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control when you obtain it, it’s beautiful. Going for a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, in the mean time keeping the nose pointed in at less than two or three inches in the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of hand thing, along with the D4 would it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you believe just like you need more of something anything there’s a good amount of points to adjust. I actually enjoyed the car using the kit setup plus it was only a matter of battery power pack or two before I had been swinging the rear throughout the hairpins, throughout the carousel and back and forth with the chicane. I never had an opportunity to strap battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking forward to.
There’s not a whole lot you could do to damage a drift car they’re really not going everything fast. I have done, however, have an trouble with the top belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. Through the initial run, it suddenly felt much like the D4 acquired just a little drag brake. I kept along with it, attempting to overcome the matter with driving, but soon were required to RPM Traxxas Revo parts it directly into actually check it out. Through the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that may be backed by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square about the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, as soon as the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a prolonged screw with a couple of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little bit more. Problem solved.